Friday, March 15, 2013

Dart Manipulation #5: Two dart series

I am sorry for the quality of some of the pictures, they are not as good as i would like them to be.The bodice am going to make is one with a straight/bust dart and also a waist dart like the drawing below

 In the second photo, top right, i drew a line from the side seam where the bust dart should be, the you can see that i cut out the dart in the next picture on the left then i slashed the bust dart line. I also marked a point "x" at the junction between side seam and waist.

The instruction says close the dart until the point labelled x touches the square line but am thinking the waist dart looks too small for a Barbie sized doll but am going to sew it anyway and if it's impossible am going to open up the waist dart. the image on top left shows the dart closed until "x" is on a horizontal axis. i then placed another transparent paper over the pattern, traced it and moved the dart point away from the bust point int the last image bottom right (i will show how to move dart point below).

How to move dart point.
First mark a point half way from each dart leg, then draw a line from the half way point to the dart point. Along the the line you just drew mark a new position for your dart point labelled "x"

Then draw a line from each dart leg to that point. then you can erase the old dart point and done.

Cutting the pattern (bellow). The waist dart look really small, that will be hard to sew!

The bodice appears to be ok, but as shown in the book, the point of the side dart should be further away from the bust point compared to that of the waist dart, however I used equal distance as the waist dart so I have to fix that.
The side dart also looks a little like a French dart instead of a straight one so I will position it higher up nearer to the arm hole. (image bell
The waist dart was really small and difficult to sew but not impossible however I will still increase it ( normally I will fix one problem, then sew a bodice then fix the next problem and then sew another one, but am just going to take the easy way out this time)
It's also possible that once I increase the waist dart I probably won't need to change the position of the straight/side dart so am yet to decide what am going to do.

Also there is some fullness between the bust and the waist dart, maybe because they are too close to each other.

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